This says ‘Cake Hole’ in Armenian. You don’t come to Armenia for the food. They do really good booze. When the Russians took control after WW1 they divided the different Soviet countries into production regions, so even though Armenians make great wine they had to make brandy and cognac, and vodka. And Georgia got to make all the wine. So that’s what they’re still famous for. The vodka is 100% fruit alcohol. Peach, apricot, plum. Its really good. Puts hair on your chest.

The food is similar to Lebanese or Turkish. Ottoman food. Every meal has cucumber salad, eggplant, bread and cheese. And then some sort of grilled meat or fish (farmed trout) dish. And then fruit and tiny sweet coffee. Very simple and lovely (and boring).

Really good local beer. Kilikia. Which makes me think of Samoan cricket games in Grey Lynn Park.

Beautiful cheese, and usually labneh. Sometimes a sort of wonton of stretchy mozzarella-ish stuffed with walnuts and herbs. These ladies are making lavosh bread in underground, kind of tandoori ovens.

This is some lovely grilled trout. A lot of fresh water farming here. And some bbq pork which was 90% fat – so absolutely perfect for me, especially washed down with vodka. Both served with potatoes. Because Russia. Although they do have cous cous/flat bread as well. I guess when there’s 20ft of snow in winter any carbs will do. And vodka at lunch time.

Beautiful herb salads. Dandelion. Sorrel. Basil. Parsley. Dill. Served with every meal. The green salad in the trio was a really interesting  – tarragon and feta-ish. Served with eggplant and cucumber. As per.

So much fruit. Gorgeous dried fruit everywhere. The little melons above the watermelons you apparently only buy because they make your house smell amazing. Like quinces maybe :).