Now I’m in Yerevan. The capital of Armenia.

Can I say firstly, that Beirut airport is the worst worst airport in the world by a factor of 10. Just so AWFUL and TERRIBLE.

Yerevan is all elegance and refinement by comparison to Beirut. Traffic has rules. You don’t throw your rubbish into the street. (In Beirut is is collected and dumped into the sea, Greece is justifiably very angry about this).

There are leafy tree and avenues. Flower shops and cake shops. Every third shop is a beauty salon. I may be able to solve my dreadlock problem. The architecture is modern and affluent (where I am) in a shabby, run down way. The old buildings are very heavy and monolithic and ugly. But I have spotted some shiny churches – Yay. They like a nice gold onion top here, Russian orthodox style.

It is illegal to have grey hair here, regardless of age. or natural lips. Or untattoo’d eyebrows. I realise now the Kardasians didn’t just happen.